Become a Foster

Never had a dog before or feel like you don’t really know much about dogs? Don’t worry, here’s a crash course.

• Dogs sleep a lot. Especially small dogs. Like… 14 hours a day a lot.
• Dogs need to go for walks and SNIFF, not just pee. Their vision isn’t great (kind of blurry, mostly blueish and yellowish), and they use their noses to learn about their world. Make sure you give your pup time to snuffle around. They love it (and need it). If the weather is crummy you can use a snuffle mat, or make your own sniffing games with paper bags and boxes full of hidden treats.
• It’s harder to train out unwanted behaviors than it is to train wanted behaviors. Teaching your pup to sit, stay, “look at me”, and paw in a calm, controlled environment will give you the tools you need to deal with lunging, barking, and guarding. When you have a language to communicate what you WANT with your dog, you can distract them from what you don’t want.
• Having said that — you should praise freely and often! Just because your dog isn’t doing a “trick” doesn’t mean you shouldn’t let them know how great they are! When your dog is behaving appropriately (walking well, chewing on their toy in their crate, sitting nicely with a visitor) you should make sure to tell them “good girl!”. Think of it this way — you constantly tidy up, run to the bank, do the laundry, make the bed, take out the trash and load the dishwasher. Your partner never says thank you, BUT, if you DON’T change the toilet paper roll they ALWAYS shout at your about it. You’ll probably end up pretty resentful and be less likely to complete a task that they do ask you to do (like get the mail). Dogs are similar. If you only get mad at them for things they do that you don’t like, but you never tell then how good they are for the things you do like, they’re not going to be super keen to do any training. Be nice. Dogs like it.
• Just like people, dogs gain weight when they eat too much. Don’t overfeed them.
• Yards are great, but dogs get pretty bored out there on their own. They would like for you to sit with them, or play with them outside too.
• Dog Parks are not great. SOME dogs love them but MOST dogs hate them, they’re full of disease and often frequented by people who don’t give a crap if your dog gets attacked by their dog.
• Don’t yank on the leash! If you pull them you’re letting them know that pulling is an option. It works both ways. Use your words (and treats)
• Dogs learn by “what works” and “what doesn’t” — here’s the easiest example to understand. Dogs bark at the mail carrier and the mail carrier leaves. Every time. The mail carrier never comes inside. They drop their packages and leave. It always works. So they always bark. If the mail carrier came in and had a lemonade every day the barking pattern would change because it wouldn’t work.
• It’s not the dog’s job to know how to interact with kids, it’s the parent’s job to teach kids how to respectfully interact with the dog.
• Dogs are not pack animals
• Dogs do not need a “leader”, dogs will not “appoint a leader” (Alpha theory has long been debunked)
• Your dog should trust you, not fear you.
• A happy, trusting dog will cooperate with you.
• Try some fun training games with your foster dog –  KIKO PUP FREE VIDEOS

See Enrichment Videos

Thank you for becoming a Dogs Without Borders Foster parent! Fostering SAVES LIVES every day.

We want your fostering experience to be a positive one and we are here to help you if you hit any bumps.

As you likely know already, we rescue dogs primarily from the shelter; as a result, we do NOT always know if they are house trained, dog or cat friendly, or good with children; this is where our FOSTERS come in! We rely on YOU to help us with this “fact ­finding” mission to tell us the good, the bad, and the ugly and in return, we offer our experience and support to help fosters feel empowered to address any situation that comes up with their foster dogs.

If we know anything about a dog’s personality or health prior to you fostering, rest assured we will tell you as much information as we possibly can.

Let’s start with some BASICS

Our dogs have all come to our rescue after having suffered some sort of trauma, neglect, abuse or emotional abandonment, so we ask all of our fosters to have PATIENCE.​

The first 48 hours may not be an indication of the dog’s temperament and personality.

You dog may never been loved, nor lived with a family indoors; or they may have been abandoned by their owners on the street, or dropped off  at the shelter. We can all only imagine what they have had to endure, but we do know that a majority of our dogs are suffering from shelter shock, the canine equivalent of PTSD.

What your foster dog needs most is PATIENCE. She may be shaking, maybe she won’t budge when you are trying to take her for a walk, or if you’re wondering why she isn’t jumping onto your lap to lick your face – try to remember that she ended up abandoned and she doesn’t know what your intentions are.

While the going may get rough initially, just remember YOU are the only person this dog has right now in the whole world who cares about her, and while she may be smelly, scared, or has an accident on your favorite area rug, all she has is you.

Show her strong leadership and patience and she will blossom.

Thank you for saving her life.

SETTING YOUR FOSTER DOG UP FOR SUCCESS!

Whether you are a first time foster or a seasoned veteran, or recently adopted a dog from us, we all know that the first 72 hours of bringing a new dog into the home are the hardest. But, if you can endure, you will have given a dog not only clear boundaries and rules he can understand, but laid the foundation on which this poor sweet soul can finally start to rehabilitate. All of the dogs that come to Dogs Without Borders have each suffered some sort of trauma in their lives.

These are the “Golden Rules​” of fostering:

BE PATIENT. This dog does not know better, he may never have been loved or a part of a family. He may never have had a toy before, he may not understand what little kids are, and having a furry friend may be really frightening right now, too. Everything is new, and you are a complete stranger he must learn to trust­ and you must earn his trust in return.

BE KIND. ­He needs you to be firm, but please don’t yell or lose your temper when he is whining in his crate at night. He may be afraid of the dark. He may have been abused and is already fearful of humans; please remind him not all humans are bad. Surely a few sleepless nights are a small price to pay to have saved this dog’s life, right?

BE COMPASSIONATE. He may have lost the only family he ever knew and has a broken heart, or he may have lived on the streets eating trash and having to fight to stay alive, but wherever he came from, he will get better in time. All he needs is love.

REMEMBER WHY YOU BECAME A FOSTER IN THE FIRST PLACE. In those wee hours of the night when a dog is crying in his crate, it’s hard to think clearly. When your dog is scared of the leash, or has refused to eat for days, it’s frustrating for sure. But when you think about giving up, remember why you started: To save a life. To make a difference in your community. To have a companion. Whatever that reason was that brought you to our rescue to foster, THANK YOU. What you are doing DOES make a difference, just look at that dog staring at you right now­ you are a stranger to him, but he’s looking at you for guidance and reassurance that he is safe… and he is, because of YOU. Thanks for taking the time to read this, and for making the decision to foster!

The Transition: Managing Your Foster Dog

The first few days is a critical time for learning rules and breaking bad habits. Dogs are particularly impressionable in a new environment, especially the first time they try a behavior (and believe me, they WILL try anything if you allow it!). Therefore, plan to invest time during this period to socialize, teach and get acquainted with your new foster dog.

1. Plan and prepare for your new dog in advance whenever possible. Read about basic training. Decide where you will place food and water bowls and where you will potty your foster dog.
2. Decide where the dog will be confined when you’re not home and arrange for the crate in that area.
3. Prepare yourself mentally ­­ all things will NOT go smoothly at first. There will always be surprises! It’s how you get past each challenge that will define you as a foster and your dog’s ability to succeed.
4. As soon as you get your new pet home, begin managing his behavior and supervising him closely. Do not give him run of your house.
5. The most important thing he needs for the first few weeks is STRUCTURE​­­ enforced rules for living in your house. Freedom comes later as he develops the responsibility to handle it. ​Failure by the fosters and adopters to teach a dog the house rules is a chief reason for unsuccessful adoptions and foster homes. Let’s change that!

Rules to Teach Your New Foster Dog

1. Housebreaking​. Assume your new foster dog will have accidents in the home, even if house-trained; the stress and new boundaries in a new home with new people … it’s a lot for a dog to understand. Take your dog out on a long leash at 2-3 hour intervals to the area designated as the bathroom. Allow him to explore and get used to the area. When he poops or pees, praise like crazy and then reward him with a few minutes of play, sniffing or a walk; sometimes food treats are helpful for a dog who is “treat motivated”. When inside the home, for the first few days, keep the dog within your line of sight; close the doors to other rooms in the house and/or crate the dog frequently when unsupervised and to also accomplish the need of “crate training”. The dog should be kept near you in the house so that if he begins to potty inside or looks like he is about to, you can redirect and take him out immediately. Punishing a dog after the fact is ineffective and confusing to the animal; never push a dog’s face in his excrement or urine.
2. Jumping up on humans or being carried around in the home should never be permitted.​ Additionally, rough play or wrestling is NEVER appropriate, particularly when kids are in the home as some dogs do not understand how to be careful or what is considered playful noises versus fighting. If you do have kids in the home, create a separate area for the dog to be crated or separated for safety within the first 72 hours while a foster dog is getting adjusted. A foster dog should never be off­-leash unsupervised around small children particularly; erring on the side of caution is expected and required.
3. Leashing INSIDE the home. ​As you introduce your dog to each area of your house, take him there on a long leash. For the first 72 hours, whenever the dog is not inside of his crate, he must be on­-leash & tethered to a heavy piece of furniture­ in other words, restrict his access to the entire home, one room at a time, so that he learns boundaries, appropriate behavior and also slowly earns his way into the group when other animals are in the home.
4. How to interact and coexist peacefully with other pets in the home. ​Be sure to leash, prepare the crate and REMOVE all bones, toys and shared food /water bowls. For the first 72 hours, the foster dog must either be on-­leash tethered or inside of his crate; trust me, this very easy and simple method is proven to work time and again, and allows for a new dog find his place in the home. Always feed your own pets in their own space, and  feed your foster dog in their crate . All toys can be enjoyed in separate areas for the first 72 hours as well, and absolutely NEVER have bones inside the house during a foster period­ that is the sure way of causing aggression that might normally not exist.
5. All foster dogs should be kept off the furniture in the home. ​Not only will this prevent conflict between other pets in the home, but it establishes boundaries which all adopters want in a dog­ they want a dog who is house-trained, has basic manners. By keeping dogs off the furniture (and out of your beds) you will be accomplishing two very important rules that will make your dog MORE adoptable! We know this is not always your preference, OUR DOGS sleep in our beds, we know – but this is not your dog and we need to give the dog it’s own space.

Rules Fosters Must Learn

1. Communicating with a dog is critical. Praise wanted behaviors, including simple actions like relaxing in their bed, and re­direct a dog’s attention to something positive when unwanted behaviours start to appear. We do not “correct” our dogs, because they cannot fully understand the concept of “don’t” but they CAN understand “DO” — if a dog is jumping on you, turn your back and then reward them for 4-on-the-floor, or a sit.  If they are barking at the door, call them to your and reward them for the “come” behaviour.
2. Pay attention and be consistent. Don’t send mixed messages. Keep the rules simple and enforce them, but always remember to praise with words, physical touch or treats. Whatever the dog prefers.
3. Dogs look for security in their lives. You are their teacher, so tell them what you want (not what you DON’T want). If no leadership or clear boundaries are forthcoming from people, dogs begin to act as their own bosses to protect themselves and may even try to push around their human companions using growling, snapping and lunging to achieve their ends. Leadership with a dog is a positive relationship, not based on punishment or abuse. ​Set a dog up to succeed by telling him when he’s being good or doing something you like, even if it is as simple as “good sit”, “nice quiet”, etc. Rewarding a dog with treats or affection/praise for even the smallest of things creates CONFIDENCE in a dog, which breeds trust between dog and humans and a desire to learn to do more that the human likes (to earn those treats)!
4. Dogs should not roam when no one is home. A new dog that is free to wander in the home in the foster’s absence is almost certain​ to get into trouble or practice bad habits. In most cases, the damage is not done out of spite, but because the animal is nervous, stressed, frightened, stimulated to escape, bored or just exploring. Restrict the dog’s access when you are out ideally using your CRATE (or Xpen), at least until he has comfortably adjusted to your home. Crating not only protects the dogs by preventing them from making “mistakes”, but gives you peace of mind to know the dog is safe, your home is safe, and that you’re instilling rules that a dog can learn to understand. To do otherwise jeopardizes your possessions, the dog’s safety and your new relationship.

Questions? Please email Mentor@dogswithoutborders.org

Emergency Contact Numbers:
CHLOE: 424-333-1231

Lost dog, life threatening emergencies, etc! (do not call these numbers to inquire about adoptions or you will be marked as “do not adopt”)

Emergency Vets

ACCESS Animal Hospital – open 24h
Pasadena
2570 E Foothill Blvd, Pasadena, CA 91107
(626) 993-9600

Culver City
9599 Jefferson Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232
(310) 558-6100

Southbay
2551 W 190th St, Torrance, CA 90504
(310) 320-8300

Woodland Hills
20051 Ventura Blvd, Woodland Hills, CA 91364
(818) 887-2263

What is an emergency?

• Bleeding from a wound
• Extreme lethargy and pale gums
• Lost dog

What is NOT an emergency?

• Fleas
• Sneezing
• Needing a haircut

Most DWB dogs will be sent home with ORIJEN or ACANA brand food.

Please make sure to contact DWB before you run out of food. We have LOTS and you can pick it up at fair or our office.

If you run out of food and need to buy a few days worth before getting more from DWB please contact us first, because we may have a foster with extra supplies in your area.  If we approve you to buy more food please review our list of recommended foods. Do NOT feed Purina, Iams, Kibbles & Bits, Beneful, Pedigree, Cesar, Alpo, etc. Keep your receipts!

Provide fresh water (in a clean bowl!) all day!
These amounts are approximate, please check the bag or ask if you’re not sure.

Active, Adult Dry

• 4 lbs - 1/3 cups/day (40g/day)
• 11 lbs - 3/4 cups/day (90g/day)
• 22 lbs - 1 & 1/4 cups/day (150g/day)
• 44 lbs - 2 cups/day (240g/day)
• 66 lbs - 2 & 3/4 cups/day (330g/day)

Overweight or Less Active, Adult Dry

• 4 lbs - 1/4 cups/day (30g/day)
• 11 lbs - 1/2 cups/day (60g/day)
• 22 lbs - 1 cup/day (120g/day)
• 44 lbs - 1 & 1/3 cups/day (160g/day)
• 66 lbs - 2 cups/day (240g/day)

​If your new foster dog was just rescued from the shelter, she may develop kennel cough within the first 10 days.

Do NOT be alarmed if you see a runny nose, or if you start to hear a hacking or honking sound in their throat/chest; simply EMAIL us foster@dogswithoutborders.org as soon as you observe this, and you will receive a response within 24hrs to arrange for you to pick up some antibiotics.

Kennel cough IS contagious to other dogs, so please separate your dog from the foster as soon as you think there might be symptoms.  (We will provide any foster with antibiotics for their dog if the kennel cough is transferred)

Another common thing dogs experience after leaving the shelter is having worms in their feces. While not pleasant, it’s an easy, one ­pill fix.

Fleas are also another unpleasant situation. Dogs are pre­treated at time of rescue, but we also provide flea treatment at no cost to our fosters as needed; simply EMAIL us and we will schedule a location for you to either pickup the flea medication or you can come to any of our weekend adoption fairs for a treatment.

All of these things are available to help our fosters & dogs have a smooth, stress-free experience!

You may be given medication for your foster dog.

Here’s what they are and what they’re for

Flagyl (Metronidazole): Antibiotic used for GI infections – typical dosage is 10mg per lb per day (eg. 25lb dog would get one 250mg tab per day, 12lb dog would get 1/2tab per day)

Doxycycline: Broad spectrum antibiotic used for kennel cough, urinary tract infections and infected wounds. Dosage is 5mg per pound of body weight per day,  given with food. Dosage should be split into 2 doses a day. (Eg. A 15lb dog should get 1/2 tab, twice a day for 10 days) Each tab is 150mg.

Cephalexin: Broad spectrum antibiotic used for urinary tract infections, “hot spot” skin infections, and ear infections

Dewormer: Broad spectrum anti-parasite pill to kill intestinal worms such as roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and whipworms. Usually works in one dose but a second tab 10 days later can be administered. (A whole tablet is for 20lb in weight – split as needed for the dog’s weight)

Flea treatment: Topical medication, placed on the nape of the neck, to help kill and repel flea and ticks. Dogs should not be bathed within 24 hours after application. (Please do not use a flea collar unless it was provided by DWB!)

Benadryl:  Oral medication for allergies (itchiness, runny eyes, chewing) 1mg of Benadryl per pound of body weight, two to three times a day. Regular, pink Benadryl tabs from CVS are fine, they are 25mg each.

If your dog was just rescued from the shelter it will not attend adoption fairs for the first 10 days.

After that decompression period, we ask that your dog attends at least one adoption fair per month, but you are welcome to bring to as many as we hold. You will receive an email from our foster department asking you to confirm which fair(s) your dog will attend. It’s imperative that you REPLY even if your dog cannot attend.

There’s no need to hang around at the fairs, just drop off and pick up, our dogs show better when their foster parents aren’t present anyway. If your dog goes to a trial home (foster-to-adopt) we will call you so that you don’t have to come pick up (unless you’d like another foster!)

Adoption Fair Checklist

• RSVP
• Crate
• Extra Food
• Medication
• Special harnesses
• Dog

Please make sure that the crate is marked with your foster dog’s name. A piece of masking tape and a Sharpie is adequate. When you arrive at fair, please place all of the supplies inside the labeled crate.

Please use this form to update us with any behavior changes, good or bad! If you need assistance please contact Foster@DogsWithoutBorders.org as per your foster agreement. If you would like a foster mentor to follow up with you please indicate on your form. THANK YOU.
See Form

If you live in a house with a yard it can be easy to think that your foster dog doesn’t need a regular walk. If they have easy access to a secure yard they have somewhere to play and pee, right? No!

Yards are great, don’t get us wrong. A lot of dogs love to lay in the sun, sniff around outside, and pee as needed, but WALKS serve more than one important purpose.

Your foster dog should know where it lives. If something goes wrong and your foster dog gets loose or lost, it should know how to get back home. When a dog has regular walks around the neighborhood, it will recognize visual and olfactory markers (created by her, or other animals).

Your foster dog needs mental stimulation. Sniffing around provides valuable input to a dog, gives them something to do, something to think about and they rely on you to expose them to the world! Try to vary your walk route as much as possible.

Your foster dog needs to meet new people, dogs and situations. When foster dogs are well socialized and exposed to new places & people, they are better prepared to adapt to their forever home.

Your foster dog needs structured exercise. Dogs might play alone sometimes but they won’t usually self-exercise. They need you to include scheduled activity into their daily life.

Your foster dog will learn. Every walk is a training opportunity!  They will learn how to be polite when meeting others, sit before crossing the street, pee and poop outside and watch their handler (you) for instructions.

You should probably go for a walk too 🙂 It’s good for you!

Fostering a litter of puppies can be REALLY fun. Puppies are happy about everything! They have no agenda. They are full of unfocused energy and will keep you laughing.

If you have the mama dog, but you DON’T have a private yard, you MUST wash her feet and belly when you take her out to pee to ensure she doesn’t bring in any diseases from the sidewalk or grass. If you have a private yard you’re probably ok until she starts going on walks.

If you have a guest room this is IDEAL for fostering puppies, but if you don’t that’s ok! Everyone will be sleeping a lot so as ling as you can provide a quiet space that’s fine. You’ll need to do lots of laundry no matter what.

• If you have a digital scale please weigh the puppies in grams, every week, and let your foster mentor know by email.
• Please try and take a clear photo of each puppy each week and send it to your foster mentor
• We do not post unavailable puppies on social media because it creates a frenzy, but please, TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS AND VIDEOS so their adopters can learn more about them.  When the puppies ARE ready and available, we share all of the photos/videos online.
• Although mom should be vaccinated, the puppies are NOT and are NOT protected against Parvo nor Distemper. REMOVE YOUR SHOES and WASH YOUR HANDS before interacting with the puppies. Do not wear outside shoes around the puppies. Parvo lives on surfaces LONG AFTER the sick dog was nearby. You CAN track it into your home. The puppies CAN get VERY SICK!

Here’s what to expect, week by week.

Week 1: The puppies are like worms.  Their eyes are closed and they don’t do much except blindly wiggle to their mom’s nipples.  Mom will lick their bottoms to stimulate urination and poops (which mom eats).  You should spend this time making friends with mom.  If she’s super protective and aggressive, start by speaking sweetly to her and give her chicken (or other yummy meat) every time you need to be in her space.  Get on a routine of cleaning up, feeding, letting her out and bribe her HEAVILY with chicken or yummy meats each time.  It’s important that she learns to trust you because not only will she be easier to deal with for the next 2 months, but puppies with fearful or aggressive moms tend to also be fearful and aggressive!  She will probably not want to go on a walk because she won’t want to be away from her puppies for too long.  The puppies should be kept in a pen with a soft bottom (like a comforter) so they can sleep safely.  You can feed mom in her pen.  If the pen has an opening, you can leave it open as long as no other pets are around.  Mom will need to go outside every few hours to pee and poop.

Week 2:  The puppies are still like little worms, but they are slightly bigger.  Mom will continue to be the primary caretaker.  Keep making friends with her.  She needs your love and patience right now.  Keep her sleeping and eating area as clean as you can.  Keep her food bowl FULL, she needs lots of calories.  Make sure to wash out her water and food bowl EVERY DAY.  We recommend playing some white noise, “music for dogs” or reggae at a quiet volume (dogs love reggae!).  Mom will need to go outside every few hours to pee and poop.

Week 3: The puppies will start to open their eyes and become aware of their surroundings.  They may be slightly more mobile but they won’t be using their legs!  They will be squirmy little things but they should not be able to get out of the pen.  Usually around this time, mom will start to steal stuffed toys and hoard them into the crate with her puppies.  Mom will need to go outside every few hours to pee and poop.  Puppies will continue to nurse.

Week 4: The puppies will be up on their feet, maybe not super well, but they will be trying to walk.  They may consider escaping the pen if the door is open.  We recommend placing LOTS of puppy pads inside and outside the pen to give them ample opportunities to relieve themselves.  Pee pads also help with traction.  Mom will keep licking their bottoms to stimulate urination, but they might start to pee on their own.  They probably won’t discriminate where they pee so remember the laundry advice from earlier.  They will start to interact more with each other in a playful way and they might start to notice the toys.  You can start to offer soft food or soft food mixed with puppy formula.  Primarily, they will still be nursing but it’s not a bad idea to get them used to the idea.  You can smudge some food on their mouths.  You should also remove mom from the room for 30 minutes to 1 hour to give the puppies a chance to investigate the food.  She will eat it when she gets back 🙂  Mom will need to go outside every few hours to pee and poop.

Week 5: Your puppies will start to show interest in mom’s food, if they haven’t already, and you should be offering them soft food or soaked kibble every few hours.  You should place the puppies near the bowl and encourage them to eat the food.  Typically, they will try to go after a nipple instead.  They will start to show interest in drinking water.  They will be using their legs more and will be trying to jailbreak out of their pen and explore.  They will be pretty wobbly still.  You should continue to lock mom out occasionally so they can try and learn about food on their own.  Mom will need to go outside every few hours to pee and poop.  Puppies might begin to show moments of “littermate syndrome,” which is when they become unexpectedly aggressive or mad at their siblings.  Please make a note of it and try to get a video so we can see if it’s an indication of something bigger or just a natural part of their interactions.  A little playful growling is nothing to worry about, but if any of the puppies are attacking each other let us know immediately.

Week 6: This is when the fun begins. You puppies will start to really grow into their bodies and personalities. They will be playing, running, eating food, drinking water, chasing, chewing on your toes and finger, trying to steal your socks, and mom should be playing with them to encourage proper interactions. She maybe urge shyer puppies to play with her, or interrupt bullying between siblings. The puppies should be given LOTS of food every few hours, and you will probably need to keep mom away from it while they eat. They will start to recognize you and be interested in you.  Offer them new environments to explore if you can (if you’ve been keeping them in a guest room, bring them into the living room). Mom might be interested in walks and getting a short break from her puppies. She might also just jump onto furniture that’s higher than her puppies can get to.

Week 7:  Total chaos.  Your puppies should be completely mobile, running around, playing, making noises and chewing on toys (or anything they can get in their mouths).  They will have 20-30 minute bursts of energy at all hours of the day and then they crash out.  They will still try to nurse on mom but she will probably be irritated and run away from them.  Give them FOOD when they start to harass her.  They will drink water regularly.  They will be pooping regularly and peeing everywhere (sorry).  Mom will STILL try to eat their poop and clean up their pee if you’re not on top of it.  PLEASE try to keep on top of it.  They will recognize you and be happy to see you.  They will want to cuddle with you, lick you, play with you and engage with other pets in the home.  You MUST supervise them when they are not in a pen or they WILL chew all of your cables!  This is puppy love.  Use their names regularly when interacting to help them learn.  Mom might be interested in walks and getting a short break from her puppies.  She might growl at them when they try to nurse (it’s fine).  Everyone and everything will smell like pee if you don’t take our laundry advice from earlier.

Week 8:  These babies are almost ready to go to their forever homes.  You should know them well by now and we need you to write a short description of each dog so we can make sure they end up in the right homes.  Typically, there is a variety in personalities- some are more affectionate, outgoing, braver, shyer or grumpier than their other siblings.  Make sure you let us know the little details.. Here’s some examples:

NAGA is the smallest puppy in this litter. She is very loving and outgoing. She loves to play with her siblings but will also have you wrapped around her little paw when she stares lovingly into your eyes. She LOVES to give kisses, snooze in your lap, and will make a wonderful companion for someone who wants an adorable co-conspirator.

LAMIA is the shyest puppy in this litter. She was originally the biggest puppy, the first to open her eyes and the first to start walking around but now she is a bit more reserved. She enjoys playing with toys on her own, chasing with her sisters, and shows a lot of interest in the adult dogs in her foster home. It seems like she would love a mentor dog who will teach her about life. Lamia will often put herself to bed in her crate when her sisters are still playing.

PADMA is the largest puppy in this litter. She loves people but can be a bit bossy with her siblings.  She sometimes gets frustrated or mad when she loses a game of chase or wrestle.  This behavior might disappear when she’s separated from her sisters or evolve into aggression toward other dogs.  Her adopter should be a “dog person” who can read dog body language well.  They should intercept unwanted interactions calmly, swiftly and without intimidating her.  She is otherwise a very happy, playful puppy.

Types: Flat Collar & Martingale Collar (you may NOT place a prong collar, choke chain or shock collar on any DWB dog for ANY reason)

What is a flat collar?

A flat collar is a regular collar – the kind you’re probably most familiar with. Usually with plastic snap, or metal buckle closures.

Flat Collar Pros

• There are many different types and colors to choose from.
• Dogs adjust to wearing this collar easily.
• It’s easy to fit and adjust.
• You can easily attach tags and leashes to it.

Flat Collar Cons

• Until dogs learn to walk politely on leash, they might pull against the collar
• Nylon collars can loosen with time and do not have “no slip” systems built in to their designs

Trainer Tip: Don’t pull on the leash to try to get your dog’s attention, which will inadvertently teach your dog to pull back—and make a flat collar useless.

“If you pull back to get their attention when they’re sniffing, or pull on the leash to tell your dog to sit, you’re trying to control your dog by pulling on the leash instead of controlling him vocally,” Ulbrich explains. “You’re teaching your dog, ‘you pull, I pull.’”

How to use a FLAT COLLAR

Flat collars should be fit using the “two finger” rule: Once the dog’s collar is fastened, you should be able to easily slide two fingers under the collar. When you slide the width of your two fingers between the collar and neck, the collar should feel snug, but not tight.

If the collar is LOOSER than this, the dog can be a slip risk. Tighten the collar until you hit the “two finger” tightness.

NOTE: If your foster dog’s collar is always coming loose, or cannot be tightened to follow the two finger rule alert the staff immediately.

What is a MARTINGALE COLLAR?

A Martingale is a “no slip” collar, traditionally used on narrow headed breeds (like Greyhounds) and dogs who are prone to “backing out” of their collar when frightened or startled. They typically do not have a closure but instead slip over the head and then are tightened after being put on.

Martingale Collar Pros

Virtually impossible to escape if properly fitted and leashed in the correct manner.

Martingale Collar Cons

Can cause damage to neck if dog pulls excessively over time.

How to use a MARTINGALE COLLAR

Martingales work by sitting loose until pressure is applied by the dog pulling against the leash and then it SLIPS (or tightens) to a closer fit so that the dog’s head can’t slide out.

They are comprised of 3 rings

1. Loosen the collar so it’s big enough to go over your dog’s head

2. Slide the collar over the dog’s head

3. Pull the collar up just behind the dog’s ears and adjust. It is crucial to adjust the collar here because this is the point at which the collar could slip off the dog’s head. The two metal rectangles should be at least two inches apart from one another.

4. Pull up on the D ring. Pulling up on the D ring will test how well you’ve fitted the collar. If the hardware on the collar is touching (where the control loop meets the larger loop around your dog’s neck), the collar is too loose and needs to be tightened. The control loop should close when you pull up on the D ring.

5.Test the fit with your fingers. Be sure to leave around one to two fingers of room on the loop around the dog’s neck when the control loop is closed so that the collar isn’t too tight. Adjust the slide buckle on the outer loop so that the hardware is approximately 2″ apart.

6. Look to make sure the collar is properly fitted. A properly fitted Martingale collar should rest around the middle of the dog’s neck. If it is still tightened up behind their ears, the collar is too tight and might cause them discomforttrs between the collar and neck, the collar should feel snug, but not tight.

7. Check the fit of the collar before leaving the house. Martingale collars do stretch over time and need to be adjusted and occasionally completely refitted.

8. Attach the LEASH to the CENTER D Ring of the control loop — The two outer rings are like pulleys to facilitate the “no slip” function.

Types: Vest style harness, Buddy Belt & No Pull (“Easy Walk”) Harness

Note – there are other styles of harnesses on the market but they are NOT APPROVED for DWB dogs.

What is a vest style harness?

This is a very common type of harness. The harness is usually made of mesh or fabric and has a velcro closure, in addition to a plastic snap buckle, on the back. The leash clips to 2 (TWO) D-Rings on the back.

Vest Harness Pros

• There are many different types and colors to choose from.
• Most are breathable mesh fabric and do not chafe
• It’s easy to fit and adjust.
  You can easily attach tags and leashes to it.
• Easy to put on

Vest Harness Cons

• Not all body types and shapes can be properly fitted with a vest harness
• Can increase pull instinct in some reactive dogs.
• Hard to control a wild dog

How to use a vest harness

1. Open the harness and lay it flat on the floor
2. Place your pup’s feet into the circular holes
3. Pull the harness up the legs and fasten securely behind the shoulder blades
4. Attach the leash to BOTH D Rings
5. The harness should fit snuggly and not gape in the front, or sag around the body.

What is a Buddle Belt Harness?

Made in Canada, these harnesses are getting more popular in the USA. They look kind of like super hero masks are ideal for very small dogs, and dogs who have long spines (like Dachshunds) who should not have any pressure on their neck. They slide on both legs and buckle behind the shoulders. Leashes attach to a single D-Ring on the back.

Buddy Belt Pros

• They come in both genuine leather and vegan options
• They last FOREVER
• They are suitable for most body types
• Most are breathable mesh fabric and do not chafe
• It’s easy to fit and adjust.
• You can easily attach tags and leashes to it.
• Easy to put on

Buddy Belt Cons

• Expensive
• They can chafe your dogs underarms while they “break in” (pads are available to fix this)

How to use a Buddy Belt Harness

1. Open the harness and lay it flat on the floor
2. Place your pup’s feet into the circular holes
3. Pull the harness up the legs and fasten securely behind the shoulder blades – follow the 2 finger rule
4. Attach the leash to BOTH D Rings
5. The harness should fit snuggly and not gape in the front, or sag around the body.

What is an easy walk/no pull harness?

If your dog is a puller, has some leash aggression, or prone to escape you may receive a no-pull harness. These can be a bit confusing to put on because they often have more than one D Ring but this allows for easy double leashing if your foster is a flight risk (Korean and Chinese meat market dogs, etc)

Easy Walk Pros

• They give more control over pulling on the leash, jumping up or other poor leash manners.
• They provide directional steering, allowing for the dog to be turned around when needed.

Easy Walk Cons

• Can be confusing to put on and are often put on incorrectly
• The leash on the front of the chest can tangle under the dog’s front legs if too much slack is given.

How to use an easy walk harness

1. Familiarize yourself with the harness components
2. Unbuckle the harness belly strap
3. Place the harness over your dog’s head
4. Pull the belly strap under your dogs chest, behind their legs
5. Tighten the harness using all 3 adjustable points – use “the 2 finger rule” – you may need to remove the harness to properly adjust it

Assume your new foster dog will have accidents in the home, even if housetrained; the stress and new boundaries in a new home with new people … it’s a lot for a dog to understand.

Take your dog out on a long leash at 2-3 hour intervals to the area designated as the bathroom. Allow her to explore and get used to the area. When she poops or pees, praise like crazy, and then reward her with a few minutes of play, sniffing or a walk; sometimes food treats are helpful for a dog who is “treat motivated”.

You can associate pottying outside with a word (do your business, go pee, etc) but please make sure all members of the household use the SAME word so the dog does not get confused.

When inside the home, for the first few days, keep the dog within your line of sight; close the doors to other rooms in the house and/or crate the dog frequently when unsupervised and to also accomplish the need of “crate training”.

The dog should be kept near you in the house so that if she begins to potty inside or looks like she is about to, you can break her focus (say “nah­ah­ah”) and take her out immediately. Punishing a dog after the fact is ineffective and confusing to the animal.

Never push a dog’s face in her excrement or urine.

Make all good things happen in the crate!

Feed in the crate, treat in the crate, new toys in the crate!

Why do we crate train?

Crate is a terrific training and management tool. It is useful for house-training, brief alone-time, settling, and any form of travel. Crate training also helps the dog make a positive association with a “safe & familiar place” even if they move between fosters.

Is using a crate cruel?

Absolutely not. A crate can be your dog’s favorite place in the world. Use treats, praise, and toys to make
your dog love his crate. Just remember never to use the crate for more than 3-4 hours at a time, except for bedtime.

Getting your dog used to the crate

Step 1. Begin crate training right away—preferably the first day your dog is in your home.
Step 2. Throw small tasty treats into the crate one at a time. Praise your dog when he goes in to get the treat.
Step 3. When your dog is comfortable going into the crate, practice closing the door for 1-2 seconds, then treat him through the door. Let him back out. Repeat this step many times, gradually building to 10 seconds.
Step 4. Stuff a Kong with something very yummy or use a special bone that will take a lot of time to chew. Put the treats in the crate. Shut the door. Move about the house normally. Let your dog back out after 5 minutes or when he finishes his treat. Don’t make a fuss over him. Repeat this step several times, varying the length of your absences from 1 to 20 minutes.
Step 5. Next, leave your dog in the crate with something delicious while you leave the house for short errands, like getting the mail or watering the garden. Gradually build your absences.

Training Tip: When you plan to crate your dog for longer than an hour, make sure he is well exercised and ready for a nap.

Troubleshooting: If your dog is going to the bathroom in his crate, remove any bedding and make sure he has been pottied before you put him in the crate, and that he is not being left for too long.

PDF Instructions

Do you have a dog who is always on the go? He probably spends his days driving you crazy with his endless array of enthusiastic activities, and he never seems to relax.

Maybe you have a dog who seems afraid of everything. His fear and stress are probably obvious most of the time, and he may never seem to calm down as he moves throughout his day.

Or perhaps your doggo is reactive. If so, he’s probably always on the lookout for something, and when he sees it, he explodes in a frenzy of barking, or get so distracted it’s like you don’t exist.

Dogs who have issues with hyperactivity, fearfulness, or reactivity may have trouble relaxing, or calming themselves down when they get excited.

It’s like they have simply never learned how to relax! Fortunately, there’s a way to teach your pooch to chill out — it’s called a relaxation protocol.

It is pretty common for foster dogs to experience some separation anxiety when left alone.

The severity of the anxiety can range from pacing and whining to much more destructive behavior. A dog may experience separation anxiety simply because he has a very dependent personality, or because she is reacting to a history of abuse or abandonment. Whatever the reason, separation anxiety can be difficult to deal with because you are not around when it happens.

The most common sign that a dog may be suffering from separation anxiety is destructive behavior when left alone. A dog may scratch frantically at the door or make other attempts to get out of the house, or the dog may chew on things or engage in other destructive behaviors.

If you have reason to suspect that your foster dog is suffering from separation anxiety when you are away, consider confining the dog to a crate. If used appropriately, the crate will help the dog feel safe and secure and hopefully relieve some of the anxiety. And, until the separation anxiety itself can be examined and dealt with, a crate will help keep both your home and your foster dog safe.

If you do have the time to work with your foster dog, there are several things you can try to help alleviate separation anxiety. Start out by leaving the dog in your home for very short intervals. Tell the dog to wait and then walk outside for a few minutes before returning.

When you return to the house, praise the dog for waiting. Begin to gradually leave the dog for longer and longer periods of time. It is important that, when you leave, you remain calm and not make a big deal out of leaving. It is also important that you not be too excited when you return. You want to praise the dog, but calmly. You don’t want your return to be such an exciting event that the dog anxiously anticipates the moment of your return. Perhaps the most effective treatment for separation anxiety is time. Be patient. As your foster dog spends more time with you, he will begin to feel more secure in knowing that when you leave, you always come back.

Some destructive behavior that appears to be related to separation anxiety may, in fact, be the product of boredom. Try providing chew toys or other play items that will entertain your foster dog while you are away. One of the more popular toys keeps dogs engaged by making them work for food or treats. Once the toy is filled with some kind of small food item, the dog must work by rolling and tipping the toy until a treat falls out. Most of these products allow you to adjust the level of difficulty, and can keep a dog entertained for significant periods of time.

Don’t forget to make sure that your foster dog gets plenty of exercise. A tired dog is much less likely to engage in behaviors associated with anxiety or boredom.

The List of Dos

• Do – Start with short absences and build up the dog gradually as long as he is not stressed.

• Do – Exercise your dog regularly and provide lots of enrichment in the form or training, treat dispensing toys and fun things to chew on.

• Do – use a reliable daycare, pet sitter or dog walker when you need to be away for any amount of time longer than your dog is comfortable.

• Do – speak to your veterinarian and contact a professional trainer if your dog is experiencing signs of stress when left alone.

The List of Don'ts

• Don’t – Scold or punish your dog for doing something you don’t approve of while you are out. He is not misbehaving, he is having a panic attack.

• Don’t – Use equipment that might be painful or scary for your dog. Equipment such as shock or citronella collars will only mask symptoms of anxiety and can actually increase your dog’s fear.

• Don’t – Leave your dog in a crate alone if he hasn’t been thoroughly conditioned to love his crate.

• Don’t – leave your dog alone for any longer than he is comfortable. He will not just “get over it” Your dog is scared and needs help.

As a dog guardian, it is your job (a privileged one at that), to help your dog be safe, happy and comfortable. Make sure you follow these guidelines to ensure that.

Situational Awareness

Choose a Side

Resource guarding (also known as “possessive aggression”) is when dogs protect their valued resources, such as food, toys, sleeping areas or even people, by displaying aggressive behavior such as growling, lunging or even biting.

The most common reasons for resource guarding are:

• Past trauma
• Genetics
• Multiple pets in the household (competition)

Some of our dogs have been INTENTIONALLY STARVED by their previous owners and so obviously that dog is going to guard its food like it’s life depends on it. At one point it did.

How to Prevent Resource Guarding Between Dogs

Most importantly keep dogs separated when feeding, giving treats or toys. Do not leave any of these valuable items in public spaces.

Do not yell at nor physically threaten your dogs if they begin to show signs of aggression. By scaring them when they show us their warning signs we are encouraging them to HIDE the warnings and go straight to the attack.

How to Overcome Resource Guarding (By Patricia McConnell)

STEP ONE: Be an armchair ethologist by thoughtfully and specifically writing down what objects your dog guards, what your dog does to cause you to say she is guarding, and how close you need to be to see any sign of guarding. Here’s an example:

Objects: Chew bone, stuffed Kong, favorite stuffed toy in the shape of a deranged dinosaur.

Behavior & Distance: My dog first stops chewing or eating, and stands motionless if I get within 4-5 feet of her while she is chewing on her Kong. If I move to within 2-3 feet, her body tenses and her mouth closes. If I walk right up to her and reach toward the object, she will growl.

STEP TWO: Find something your dog likes even better than what she guards. Usually it will be some form of meat, but every dog is different. Be sure to experiment–every trainer or behaviorist has seen X,000 numbers of people who swear their dog “doesn’t care about food” until we get out our super stash of cooked chicken or freeze-dried liver and get their dog turning somersaults for it. Food is ideal because you can have it on hand and chop it up into pieces that allow you to create lots of reinforcement.

STEP THREE: Stocked with lots of treats, set up a situation in which your dog would guard. In the example above, give your dog a stuffed Kong, leave the room and re-enter with a handful of cooked chicken. Stop WELL BEFORE you would predict a reaction (any reaction) from your dog. In the example above, that would be at about 7-8 feet away. Toss a piece of chicken so that it lands right beside your dog’s mouth. (If you are like me, and flunked softball in school, just toss another one if you miss.). Wait for your dog to eat it up, and toss another piece. Repeat once or twice, then leave the room. If your dog leaves the Kong and comes over to you for more, look up at the ceiling and ignore her. You want her to learn that food only comes out of the sky if she is eating and you are standing nearby.

STEP FOUR: After a few sessions of this, start where you began in the last session, but don’t toss any food until you walk forward one step closer, no more. Toss chicken and withdraw one step. Walk forward one forward again, toss a treat and then WALK AWAY. You want your dog to think “NO! Don’t walk away!!” If, however, your dog reacts by stiffening, make a mental note to start farther back or to only approach in half steps. You can either stop there, or leave the room and re-enter it, repeating Step Four one or two times.

STEP FIVE: Gradually, ever so gradually, decrease the distance between you and your dog. Walk to within 5 feet in one session, then 4 in the next. Go back to just 5 feet for 2 sessions, then go to 4 and possibly 3 IF the dog is responding well. “Responding well” means that your dog is switching from “Oh No! She’s going to take my bone away” to “Goody! Here she comes! Whenever I have a chew bone and she comes close to it I get something better! How cool is that????” That means your dog’s body is loose and not stiff. She does not start chewing frantically as you approach. Her mouth is open and she looks as if she is happily anticipating your approach.

What if she leaves the bone and come to me? Well, good girl Fidette, that means you’ve stopped guarding the bone in search of something better. Again, simply ignore her and wait for her to return to her bone. It might take awhile for some dogs, but if you look away (this part is important) she will eventually give up and go back to her Kong or dinner bowl.

STEP SIX: Once you can approach your dog and stand right beside her, begin skipping the food toss until you are a few strides away, and start classically conditioning a reach toward the object. Keep in mind that you are working on re-wiring her brain so that she forms a new association between your actions and how she feels about them. Walking toward her is a different action than reaching toward her, so you need to think of it as a different category. (Understanding the distinction between each action you make is perhaps the most important aspect of being able to use classical conditioning to turn around a behavior, and it is not something we do naturally without training ourselves to be expert observers and thoughtful analysts of behavior.) First, bend toward the food or toy, drop a treat and then straighten up. Do this several times, or as often as necessary for your dog to remain relaxed. Remember: your dog drives the system here, not an idea you have in your head for how long this should take.  Gradually move your arm and hand closer and closer to the food or object, eventually taking it away and giving your dog something wonderful in return. I once convinced a head-strong and very RG’y dog to give me the dead bird she had in her mouth, and when she did, I gave it back to her. The people watching were appalled, but that’s what she wanted more than anything in the world, and she trusted me ever after.

STEP SEVEN: Keep it up. Forever. Not every day, or even every week, but at least every month or so you should remind your dog why it is in his or her best interests to let you take anything away.

No matter how friendly or calm your Foster dog may seem it is vital that young children are not left unattended with the dog.

Toddlers have an uneven gait which can scare dogs who tend to prefer predictability and routine. Children usually do not know their own strength or weight and are prone to laying on top of, or pressing their faces into a dog which can result in injury to both parties. What may seem cute to parents is often very annoying to a dog who will, eventually, lose patience with it.

It’s important to teach your children respect for animals and that includes respect for the animals space. Do not allow your kids to pester or tease a dog while it’s in its crate, or it’s designated sleeping area. We also do not recommend engaging in tugging games which can lead to possessiveness, and please do not allow your kids to try and take away toys or treats from your Foster dog’s mouth.

To make sure that your kids feel included in the care for your Foster dog we do recommend that you include your children in daily tasks relating to the dog such as emptying, cleaning and refilling the water dish at mealtimes, putting toys away and accompanying you on walks. Please have a sit down talk as a family to go over appropriate ways to interact with the dog, as well as set some ground rules (no table scraps, no hugging the dog, etc.)

If your Foster dog is very energetic and playful, and you have a secure yard fetch and hide & seeks games can be a fun way to get everyone tired and happy.

We hope that the more you Foster the more your children we’ll learn why rescue and fostering is important and also learn to read your Foster dog’s body language.  Until that time we want to make sure that everyone stays safe and that it is a positive experience for the whole family.

Please check out these helpful picture charts. (You can also print them! — PRINT DON’Ts –PRINT DOs)

Always introduce your dog to its new roommate on neutral ground.

If you’re picking up at fair it’s great if you can bring your dog with you. If not, that’s fine.

Remove any food, treats, chewies and toys from the general area of your home to prevent fights or resource guarding.

• Get a friend, housemate or partner to bring your dog out of your house and go for a walk.
• Take your foster dog along the same route, eventually catching up to your dog.
• Don’t make too much of a fuss, and let the dogs walk together as best as you can.
• Don’t rush it, don’t force it. As far as your dog knows it’s just a walk. Try to walk for at least 20 minutes and then walk back home.
• Once you get home, keep both dogs on a leash until you have seen how they will interact in this new setting. The key is to go slowly and supervise until both animals are comfortable with each other.

What is a Whistle GPS?

A Whistle is an advanced pet tracking system that uses both bluetooth and cellular services to track lost pets up to 3000 miles away!

How to Charge

Remove the Whistle from your dog’s collar by pushing down on the DETACHMENT TAB and sliding the tracker up and out.

The Whistle has an internal rechargeable battery that, in typical use, should last for around 10 days.

1. Attach the cable of the Whistle charging dock to any USB-compatible charging device, such as a powered USB port on your computer, a generic USB charging plug or the Apple charging base that came with your iOS device.
2. Use a dry cloth to gently wipe the charging contact on the underside of the Whistle device.
3. Align the underside of the Whistle device with the Whistle charging dock and wait for the built-in magnet to pull it into place. The light around the Whistle will turn red. Note: Make sure the Whistle button is opposite the charging cable.
4. Leave the Whistle on the charging dock until the status indicator turns green, indicating the battery is fully charged. This should take about one hour.
5. Once the battery is charged, re-attach it you your pet’s collar.

Note: If the red charging light does not appear, reset the Whistle by pressing and holding the button for at least 15 seconds. Wait for another 10 seconds, then place the Whistle in its charging dock.

EXTREME CARE must be taken if your foster dog is from overseas, including but not limited to Korea, China, Taiwan, Albania, Iran or Kosovo.

The dogs we bring from these other countries are often fearful of people and usually have not been in a home environment, nor around cars, bikes, construction, vacuums, TVs, in cars, or even walked on a leash.

More than any other dog we rescue they need PATIENCE and CAUTION.

They should ALL be considered a flight risk, no matter how confident they seem in your home. They should ALL be double leashed and their collar/harnesses need to be refitted regularly for their own safety.

If you are uncertain of how to use, or adjust, your dog’s collar and harness please refer to the how to sections for those items. If you are still struggling please contact us for help.

Your overseas dog may arrive wearing a whistle GPS device on it’s collar. If your Foster dog is wearing a Whistle GPS device it must be double leashed at all times when not inside your home. this includes traveling to and from an adoption Fair, walks in your neighborhood, and visiting friends.

Do not unleash your overseas dog on your porch, in your breezeway or other open space.

This is not a joke.

You may notice that some of our dogs have circular red, plastic tags on their collars. These are Huan tags provided to us for FREE by GetHuan.com

These tags emit a periodic blue tooth signal that can be triangulated by phones that have the FREE app installed. Similar to the TILE (a little tag you put on your keys to help you find them) these tags require a thresh hold of users to have the app installed in order for the tags to “ping” a location.

PLEASE INSTALL THIS FREE APP on your iPhone or Android device. If one of our HUAN dogs is lost your phone could help us find her!

You may also order your own FREE tags for your own dogs at GetHuan.com.

• No shared food or toys​; feed separately at either different times or areas of the home, and only allow your foster to have a toy when they are separated or in their crate
• Do not leave your foster dog alone unsupervised with your pets OR OUTDOORS (even if you have a fenced yard!); we provide crates and/or baby gates for fosters to use in order to keep safe boundaries as well as encourage quicker housetraining.
• Do not allow your foster sit on your lap, furniture, or sleep in bed with you​; by showering your new foster dog with praise and not making them earn their privileges not only creates an entitled little monster sometimes, but frequently this leads to jealousy from your other pets which leads all too often into a fight for possession and territory In short, set your foster dog up for success and minimize your own stress by being prepared & instituting firm boundaries straight from the gate.

These suggestions may sound a bit strict, but they are advised by professional trainers with nearly perfect success rate.

If your dog (or foster dog) is reactive, they lunge, bark, snarl or try to go after other dogs, or people, you have a challenging problem on your hands but it’s not impossible. The solution is 2 parts.

1. Management — this is where you go out of your way to avoid the stimulus that upsets your dog in the first place. You will drive to a quieter neighbourhood or trail for your walk, you will go out during less busy times, you will walk in a different direction when you see the stimulus coming, and you will use your voice to ask people to keep away. This is how you MANAGE the dog’s reactivity by not letting them get into situations where they are reactive. You will actively making choices for them to avoid the *bad thing*.

2. Behaviour modification — If your dog is fearful or stressed out by the presence of other people/dogs/unknown objects they will use all the tools they have to make those things go away — barking, lunging, growling, etc.  In order to change how they *feel* about the stimulus you need to create a new relationship with it by introducing *good things* when the stimulus is around.Although this involves treats, it does not mean that you can just start shoving treats in your dog’s mouth and see success right away. You will need to start playing games, and doing basic training like “look at me” or “find it” in a calm, stress-free environment. This is usually inside your home or yard.Everyday for 20-ish minutes you can play training games, and work on behaviours that are easy wins for your dog  (sit, paw, look at me, which hand is holding the treat, spin, etc) and this allows you to give them TONNES OF TREATS as a reward for being such a good girl or boy. I mean tonnes.  Become a cookie pusher.By working on these behaviours in a calm place you are not only building a bond with your dog but you are creating tools that will assist you in stressful situations. If you can get a dog to look at you, instead of fixating on the *bad thing* you can start the process of desensitization.It can also help you keep your dog distracted as an additional management tool when an unexpected jogger rounds the corner.

To fully immerse yourself in the desensitization process you can choose to take your dog to a place that has the *bad thing* but at a distance, and let them look at it, and every time they disengage, or look at you instead, they get a treat. Maybe you practice your tricks within distance, but don’t engage with the *bad thing* directly. You’re trying to teach your dog that just because that *bad thing* is there, bad things wont necessarily happen — in fact, good things happen, like treats!

Reactive Dog Do's

• Do walk in less busy areas
• Do pick new and exciting smelly spots for them to explore
• Do bring a tonne of yummy treats as a reward and reward them often for engaging with you (even eye contact!)
• Do advocate for your dog and tell people to stay away
• Do work on training at home
• Do keep aware of your surroundings

Reactive Dog Don'ts

• Don’t yank on, pinch, hit or scream at your dog if they become reactive.
• Don’t “flood” your reactive dog by putting them in a pack walk, or social situations, where they will be immediately overstimulated.
• Don’t allow your dog off-leash in a public place, including dog parks.
• Don’t try a training session when your dog is already over-stimulated (also called “over-threshold” or “red lining”
• Don’t spend the walk on your phone

Don’t forget, your reactive dog is not GIVING YOU a hard time.  They are HAVING a hard time.

Fear can manifest in a lot of different ways. Of course a fearful dog may hide, shake or tremble, lay down and hug the floor, avoid looking at you, and other common isolating behaviours. In some cases fear manifests as growling, biting, lunging, barking or resource guarding.

If your dog appears disinterested in interacting with you and it is showing any of these signs it is stressed, possibly due to fear.

• Excessively licking its lips
• Panting or drooling, even though it is not recently been exercised or it’s not very hot
• Excessive shedding
• Tucked tail
• Yawning
• Diarrhea
• Disinterested in food

Fearful dogs need a solid routine and patience. They need to know that people will not hurt them. Do not shout at your fearful dog and do not use your size to threaten the dog, even if they have an accident in the house or destroy a toy, bed or other item. Give your fearful dog time to get to know you and your home. Let her be, go about your day, and don’t force her to face her fears. She will watch you and learn.

Download the step by step E-Book

DO NOT TAKE YOUR DWB FOSTER DOG TO A DOG PARK.

YOU AGREED TO THIS STIPULATION IN YOUR CONTRACT.

If you fall in love with your foster dog FILL OUT AN ADOPTION APPLICATION IMMEDIATELY and email Foster@dogswithoutborders.org  with the subject [DOGNAME] I want to adopt my foster!

We begin to accept adoption applications for all dogs as soon as they are medically cleared (usually 2 weeks after they are rescued). You may fall in love with a dog that has another approved application.

Do not wait. Do not wait for a phone call. Do not wait for us to ask you.

If you fall in love with your foster but it’s going to a trial with another applicant, we are sorry. We know it’s hard to let them go but we move dogs between homes very quickly.

1. Check and tighten collar (“two finger rule”)
2. Attach leash to correct D Ring (not the metal ring that holds the red DWB tag!)
3. Check and tighten HARNESS (if applicable)
4. Double Leash (collar and harness) skittish dogs
5. If your dog wears a WHISTLE GPS it MUST be DOUBLE LEASHED
6. If your dog wears a WHISTLE GPS it MUST BE CHARGED BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE HOME
7. Bring poop bags
   

Don't

• Do not leave your dog unattended outdoors under any circumstances – even during the day
• Do not crate your dog for more than 5 consecutive hours
• Do not take your dog on a walk if  the ground is too hot – if you can’t keep your palm on the ground for more than 5 seconds the ground is too hot for their paws
• Do not leave your dog in the car unattended – they can overheat and die in a matter of minutes
• Do not jump to their rescue the moment they cry in their crate – they will never learn independence!
• Do not use verbal or physical aggression to address misbehavior or potty accidents
• Do not feed your dog table scraps despite how cute they may look when they beg
• Do not leave doors to the outside open when moving in groceries or other items, your dog could escape
• DO NOT PLACE A CHOKE CHAIN, PRONG COLLAR OR E-COLLAR/SHOCK COLLAR ON ANY DWB DOG FOR ANY REASON.

Do

• Do set up a confinement space for your dog when you cannot keep an eye on them – crate or playpen will work wonders for both you and your dog
• Do establish a routine, for feeding, potty and nap times to help your dog acclimate to your home and prevent accidents.
• Do make fresh water available all day, in a clean bowl
• Do walk your dog on a short leash when walking around sunset/evening time to avoid coyote incidents
• Do regulate the temperature of your home when your dog is home alone
• Do allow your dog an adjustment period – this is a whole new environment for her
• Do keep up with training, even when you think they have mastered the skill
• Do check your dog’s collar regularly to make sure it’s correctly fitted